Smaller nose wheel

[Todd Skalsky]

Hi all,

I have been told that a smaller nose wheel will help the landing on a PA24-250. Is there any truth to this and if so where do I get one. I am installing a new door seal and am wondering if there is a better door seal available. I also need the piece that rivets or screws to the bottom of the inside of the door opening. Where can I get this hardware? Thanks for any help.

Todd Skalsky
N7758P

[JIMICS2452]

Todd-
That is a myth. The solution to better landings, especially in a Comanche is proper airspeed control. I have owned and flown a 250 since 1977, and have instructed since 1979. My experience has been that most landing problems are caused by flying final to fast and then having to try to slow the aircraft down to landing speed in ground effect. I aim for 75-80 mph over the fence in my 250.

Thre are a couple of downsides to the smaller nose tire: 1) reduced propellor clearance makes it much more likely to ding the prop while taxiing 2) increased cooling drag do to the larger opening in the whell well that will slow thw airplane down as cruise speeds.

I do not recomend the change.

Jim Hiatt

[John Wedge]

Todd, we just put in new door seal several months ago - 180. The result was amazing in the reduction of noise. Brown Aircraft Supply -RB-5022 was seal. This seal has been discussed some in past either here on this site or on the Delphi site - don't remember which. It works good for us. They also sell the proper cleaner and glue to use. After door was adjusted properly, it will seem "tight to shut" at first so we kept it shut and all latches engaged for about a week and seal "set in" and now door shuts easy but seals good.
John

[Zach Grant L1011jock]

Todd,
Jim pretty much summed up the small nose tire bit. Really the only good argument for it on a single is it looks good. The best way to make good landings is to practice! Going out and flying with someone who can teach you the specifics of flying a laminar flow wing is very helpful also. Airspeed control is paramount. The lift curve is flat from about 3-7 degrees positive deck angle. If you enter ground effect less than 3 degrees, you will balloon with any flare. If you try to decelerate and gradually increase pitch to hold it off, as you get to 3 degrees, the plane lands on all three gear rather abruptly. If you were to pull quickly through to greater than 7 degrees at this point, you can flare, hold it off and make a nice landing, but it is not something that many are comfortable with. Instead, slow down out of ground effect so that you enter at the 7 degree point and then you can make a normal hold it off nose high landing by gradually increasing back pressure to arrest descent.

As for the sill plate for the door (I believe that is what you are looking for), give Webco a call. They have had them in the past. They are an interior trim piece so you can install it yourself. If you are looking for the door stop slider, they have those too.
-Zach

[Todd Skalsky]

Hi all,

Thanks for all the information it will help alot. I have one more question on the landing. What manifold pressure do you use on the 250 on final.I have had a gentalman tell me to use 13 inches and it will land smoother and not float. I have tried it a few times but the wind was always blowing pretty stiff and could not tell for sure if it was the wind that caused the float or to much power.

Thanks,

Todd Skalsky

[Zach Grant L1011jock]

Todd,
I don't know where you are located, but I highly suggest you get with a qualified instructor to show you the finer points. There is a list of Comanche instructors published in the Flyer every month, as well as the CPPP programs throughout the year. Any of these folks can get you properly situated flying your Comanche the way it should be flown. As for landing, simply put, once you enter ground effect the power should be off. As to the 13inchs suggestion, don't box yourself into a power setting. Fly the airspeed, as power required is going to vary significantly with weight, altitude and temperature.
-Zach

[N8632Y]

Todd,
I hear everyone talk about the landings w/ normal/small nosewheel, and Zach is right, "get an instructor".
But, I'd like to mention takeoffs.
I think a smaller nosewheel decreases the angle of attack on the takeoff roll, and may help get up to rotate speed a second sooner, so if u'r based in a really short field and have trouble getting over the trees, go for it,,,
otherwise, I like my normal nosewheel, i just compensate for the increase angle of attack, and actually enjoy getting her airborne and stayin in ground effect till she's really ready to fly.
steve

[Chief]

Hey Todd,

We have a 250, Here is a simple way to look at landings from my perspective and I'm only a 250 hr pilot. All landings start at pattern altitude (or on an approach plate altitude), even straight in ones. once you get abeam the numbers or equivalent on straight final, pull power to about 13-10 on MP, set flaps and fly the plane, again, fly the plane to achieve 500 ft/min descent. Watch airspeed, watch 500 ft/min and watch the intended touch down point and make the plane fly inside those envelopes. Once you start flying at night, you'll appreciate this type of approach. 500 ft/min gives you a very predictable outcome. Like Zach said, it depends on several factors when considering speed, but as a general rule (100 mph downwind, 90 mph on base and 85-80 on final typically), 80 mph is the most speed I carry into the flare, as I rotate, I pull all power and ease back on yoke until it is ready to land. I set one notch of flaps on downwind, a second notch on base and none on final, unless I am high or it is a steep/short field approach) But it all depends on wind, weight, density altitude, etc, etc. One trick I used when I first started was, I put a 50 pound secured weight in the baggage compartment to help me get in the right attitude ( a little nose up) be smooth, don't chase the plane in any of this. Final word of advice, pitch for speed, power for altitude. Not learning that will magnify issues in the pattern especially.

Stay safe! A good instructor is an asset.

[Jay]

My 2 cents. Its all about speed.

There is a lot of variation in 50 year old airspeed indicators. Springs don't wear, but their elasticity does change. Go flying, and do some stalls in landing configuration. Note the speed, and do the old 1.3 Vso thing. Use that as your target airspeed and use whatever power it takes to maintain the right speed. Adjust your speed a bit for different landing weights.

On speed, good landing. Too slow, thump. Too fast, float.

Jay

[N8632Y]

Nothing beats practice, the more you do it, if you concentrate for better each time, get the feel of the plane, the easier it gets....
Load her up to max weight and practice, then lighten the load, u'll see you'll have different speeds and power settings, makes you
like a test pilot, and you learn her real well, but do it on a longer field, to start...
Move the CG around, you can learn to feel the difference, and might help you stay ahead of her, might help?
Nothing worse than getting complacent in the comanche, gotta stay ahead of her...
I look forward to the landings, I challenge each one to be the best, doesn't always work....
steve