Horizontal STABILIZER REMOVAL PA24

[Edward Pencosky]

Horn service Bulletin or possible AD?doesnt matter you should remove your stabilizer to clean up any rust or possible freezing .Remember most of these elevators havent been off since plane was built so I recommend to do so.In case AD comes out you have it half licked. OK This process might be in comanche tip book im not sure.Take tail cone off first,remove bolt that connects trim tab rod to trim tab,than remove tail cone, let it hang down,,Lets start with right side remove of the stabilizer........look for bolt in rear that connects both halfs of the stabilizer together and remove it so both halfes of stabilizer are not connected together, This is a must.....OK now HERE IS THE IMPORTANT PART and why im writing this.You must take out both bolts that run horizontal on inboard side of elevator, I think they are 7/16".Be careful to note that the washer is not flat on one side it has a rounded side on one side, DO NOT LOOSE THESE WASHERS WEBCO TOLD MR YOU CANT GET THEM BE, CAREFUL......By removing these bolts as you slide your tail off you will be leaving the torque tube fitting on the tube instead of sliding it over the aged weathered unclean tube,Once you wiggle the STAB off by having 2 people do this you rotate Stabalizer all way up and down untill it hits the stops, than twist as you pull stab out.NOW twist other way and applying OUTWARD pressure. One more thing, spray a rust buster or liquid wrench on both holes on top of STAB to help loosen rust. Keep TWISTING and PULLING OUT BOTH WAYS.REMEMBER outward pressure also.GO slow Dont lET it fly off and land on floor.OH MY.................OK once its off you will most likely see cruddy area on shaft between 2 shiny areas where the brackets were wrapping around the tube.Clean these RUSTY areas.I used a 1/2"chisel and scraped it slowly. DO NOT GO ROUGH make sure you dont scratch it especially on the shiny areas thats not rusted. Keep spraying rust buster on it and sand it with 220 paper,or whatever.Use your head........OK once you do this and its nice and clean use a small torch, the one you see in a hardware store, to apply small amount of heat.DONT GO CRAZY NOW just a little heat. Use a BIG adjustable pair of pliers with a rag over the bracket ....Work bracket off remember what way bracket was pointing and mark left and right side on bracket with a magic marker,and bam you did it............clean up shaft its about 12" long real nice and clean."Scrape off paint toward sealed bushing" and clean that also. Get oil off and paint that area so its not exposed to weather..ONLY paint area where you scraped paint off, leave shiny area unpainted.....only paint the area close to the "sealed bushing" up to the first shiny area, maybe like 2 inches from the tail cone area.Dont paint anymore than that 2 inch area..from the tail cone area.The other part of the shaft gets never sieze By doing this procedure you saved alot of time trying to pull bracket over a rusty area and made your life easy. WHEN INSTALLING ELEVATOR INSTALL BRACKET BACK IN STABILIZER REMEMBER THE ROUNDED WASHER GOES THERE behind the nut, at least my C model had it. Put never seize on shaft and install Stabilizer along with bracket ALREADY BOLTED TO STABILIZER.Repeat other side same way...........Once you do this next time all you have to do is take out 2 bolts on top of STABILIZER and bolt in between RT and LFT Stabilizer and slide it off like butter.DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN BOLTS that connect STAB to airplane,as this could make bracket unround.. I think during annual I will remove one side of STABILIZER relube and next year do other side.This in my mine will make it easier to remove that dam tail cone without scratching it.Good luck this job took me 3 1/2 hrs not bad I think. Good luck Edward Pencosky ICS 9571

[Kristin Winter]

I would point out that a lot of Comanches can remove the stabilator halves without removing the bolts that hold the inboard torque tube fitting to the stabilator. Normal procedure is to try to remove the stabilator with the inboard fittings still attached, and only remove them if the torque tube is too corroded, etc. to allow you to work the stabilator off. My 1969 stabilators came off with a few minutes of rotating the stabilator halves while pulling.

[Edward Pencosky]

good point kristin. If they dont come off do it my way.Hope it saves someone alot of trouble.

[Michael Rath]

Edward,

Did you take any pictures of the process? I would sure like to see them.

Mike

[Edward Pencosky]

Here is pic once right stabilizer was off.Note the clean area where the inboard fitting that was connected to the stabilizer was sitting.As i previously mentioned I chose to disconnect the inboard fitting from the stabilizer by disconnecting the two 7/16 "bolts so I didnt have to slide it over dirty shaft.Once STAB was off i cleaned it and slide it off....Than lubed shaft with never seeze.I installed inboard fitting back to Stabilizer and installed Stabilizer.

[Edward Pencosky]

N9313p at Appleton 2010

[Michael Rath]

Thanks for the pictures.

Mike

[Edward Pencosky]

http://twincomanche.smugmug.com/Airplan ... 83&k=sNCdi CLICK LINK TO SEE NICE PICS OF TUBE REMOVAL........ pic 113 shows 2 bolts to remove to disconect bracket at inboard of stabilizer if stab wont come off easy.. Remember save those funny washers cant get anymore i was told . Here is another link on removal i found... http://www.comancheflyer.com/NS/hold/h7 ... ection.pdf