Proceedures for inspection of the Pitch Control Horn

Proceedures for inspection of the Pitch Control Horn

Postby Zach Grant L1011jock » Sun Aug 30, 2009 4:10 pm

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"Keep it above 5 feet and don't do nuthin dumb!"
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Postby JIMICS2452 » Wed Sep 02, 2009 12:11 pm

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Postby JIMICS2452 » Wed Sep 02, 2009 12:11 pm

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Postby Bob Waters » Sun Dec 13, 2009 4:36 am

Thanks - This is getting done at the annual this month. Are the torques for the other nuts and bolts not listed available somewhere? Bob
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Postby Kristin Winter » Sun Dec 13, 2009 7:48 am

Let me also add, that once the torque tube assembly is out of the aircraft, look down the inside of the torque tube with a flashlight and see if the two bolts that go through the horn are corroded, as this can make it difficult to remove the bolts. If you have trouble tapping the bolts through, there is two ways that I can think of to remove the corrosion on the middle part of those bolts. One is with a bead blaster, directing a blast down the middle of the torque tube, while occasionally turning the bolts so you get all sides.

The other way would be to get an extension for a drill that allows you to hold a drill bit, or in this case, a wire brush, using a couple of set screws. That should work as well.
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Postby Tony Scarpelli » Sun Aug 22, 2010 11:26 pm

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Postby Kristin Winter » Mon Aug 23, 2010 3:25 am

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Postby Chris Kuyoth » Mon Aug 23, 2010 10:57 pm

I have only removed one horn. After stripping the old paint from the tube, cleaning up the tube with a scotch-brite pad, and spraying on a little LPS, the horn slid off with only light hand pressure.

Chris
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trim drum play

Postby howard » Thu Sep 30, 2010 1:57 am

years ago we put new bushings and shimmed the play out of the trim drum on my 250. There is a weld and machine repair avail to build up the trim drum to get the "groove" out of it where it wears.
I thought there was a "put a stainless insert" repair out there too. Where do i find that option.
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trim drum play

Postby Don Nelson » Thu Sep 30, 2010 7:10 am

Howard
I did a "shim" repair on my trim drum several years ago, tho later learned it not a good idea as susceptible to itself wearing and possible jamming to where the drum will not rotate.

So later Webco did the weld repair for me, which remains quite satisfactory.

At the San Diego convention, in a seminar, Denny Haskins and Eric Paul presented the method of machining the drum for ss inserts, top and bottom. Seems that would be the very best.

Don
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Postby Zach Grant L1011jock » Thu Sep 30, 2010 3:19 pm

Shimming the drum is not bad, IF the shim is inserted under the bushings so that the oilite is the wear surface. The weld repair is the best as there is no way that you can break anything loose, its all one piece. As for the SS inserts, thats fine too. Whatever you do, make sure you take the slop out of the drum.
"Keep it above 5 feet and don't do nuthin dumb!"
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Re: Proceedures for inspection of the Pitch Control Horn

Postby 17031 » Mon Nov 22, 2010 4:00 pm

My annual comes up next month and I'm trying to plan for this. I use my Comanche for work so I need to keep down time to a minimum. What haas been the experience with the time to conduct this (and the cost)?
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Re: Proceedures for inspection of the Pitch Control Horn

Postby howard » Thu Sep 20, 2012 1:15 am

The shimming we did was "under" the bushing. It was maurice taylor himself that told us how to do it.
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Re: Proceedures for inspection of the Pitch Control Horn

Postby LeWayne Garrison » Mon Oct 15, 2012 1:03 am

We have completed our first inspection for the stabilator horn AD. No cracks found. Knock on wood the procedure was straightforward and less cumbersome than expected. Anyone wanting details may contact me at 719-250-0269, 9am to 9pm mountain time. I'll help if I can. LeWayne Garrison A&P. ICS 8202.
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Re: Proceedures for inspection of the Pitch Control Horn

Postby David Pfeffer » Wed Oct 31, 2012 3:59 pm

Which AD are we talking about?
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