oil change etc.

oil change etc.

Postby Elliot Cannon » Tue Jun 29, 2010 8:50 pm

Can someone help a "newbie" out? I just bought a 63 Comanche 250 recently. Can someone steer me to a book, pamphlet or other publication that explains the best way to change the oil. Any tips, suggestions will be greatly appreciated. I know there are other things the owner can do but I haven't seen much in the way of guidence for maintenace procedures that I can do myself.

Cheers, Elliot
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Postby N3322G » Tue Jun 29, 2010 9:15 pm

Elliott,

I learned by watching various mechanics. You may already know the below part - Of course, you 'll need all the materials:
safety wire
safety wire tool
oil
lintless shop towels
oil filter and marker to write on it
knowledge on what torque to use to tighten oil filter
oil filter torque wrench
place to put used oil

That's as far as I can go as it will differ for your single vs my twin. I do know you want the oil warm before you drain it.

Best of luck.
Last edited by N3322G on Wed Jun 30, 2010 3:36 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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Oil Change

Postby DAVEG24 » Wed Jun 30, 2010 2:56 am

Here's a tip you probably won't see elsewhere. Changing the oil filter can be messy, to say the least. If you are using a spin on filter, the following will make the job a whole lot easier. First, you need a source for compressed air. If you don't have shop air available, this won't work. If you do, punch a small hole in the top side of the oil filter. Using the compressed air, put the air nozzle on the hole and blow air into the filter. This will push the oil back into the accessory case. (Works best if the oil is warm) Continue the air pressure for about two minutes. That pretty well empties the filter. Now you can remove the filter without spilling oil all over the place. There may be some small amount of residual oil, so put a rag under the filter area just to catch the drops. That was easy.

Then you get to put on the new filter, tighten and torque. Don't forget to use some lurbricant on the filter gasket. Otherwise you will have a difficult time removing the filter next time. If you don't know how to safety the filter, have someone that does know, teach you. Add the new oil (don't forget to close the drain first), make a log book entry and you're done.

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Postby Ray B » Wed Jun 30, 2010 4:12 am

Hi Elliot, You didn't say if your engine has a quick drain valve on the sump. If not it's worth the effort to put one on. If you don't want to reach under/around a hot or warm engine, to drain the oil more quickly, just let it drain overnight, hopefully into the bucket your going to place under the cowl with a hose connected to that quick drain. Make sure the hose fits tight enough on the Q drain so it does not slip off( It don't take much oil to make a BIG puddle under the cowl!). It's also worth buying a good filter wrench if you don't have access to one. You'll want the one that fits the small hex on the top/back of the filter as you can get it between the filter and the fire wall more easily. You might also want to buy a filter cutter so you can open up the filter to inspect for metal/trash in the filter that should not be there! You'll need a knife of some sort to cut around the paper element of the filter so it can be pulled out accordian style for the inspection ------Oh ya! Better get some hand cleaner and shop rags, it can be messy, especially if you cut open filter. Have fun! Ray B
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Oil back into Crankcase

Postby fleff » Thu Jul 01, 2010 2:36 pm

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Postby N3322G » Thu Jul 01, 2010 3:43 pm

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oil change, etc.

Postby SLIMDREDGER » Thu Jul 01, 2010 6:42 pm

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Postby kenhill » Thu Jul 01, 2010 8:53 pm

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Postby Alan Cheak » Fri Jul 02, 2010 11:24 am

Elliot

As the owner of another '63 Comanche 250 congrats on a great airplane. One thing I also do when changing my own oil is I get a couple of boxes from the Fedex or UPS supply bins/drop boxes you see all around. Cut one up to fit over your nose gear wiring harness. Keeps any oil from slobbering all over and gumming up your wiring. Just be sure to pull out the cut up box before you go flying.

As you get use to your Comanche you'll find its a great airplane for hamburger hopping or cross countries. If I really push it I can make Atlanta to LA in about 12 hours. However I find 2 four hour legs gets me to cross half the country with a nice rest and with a cocktail and a good cigar at the end of the day.
Last edited by Alan Cheak on Sat Jul 03, 2010 12:51 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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oil drain

Postby DAVEG24 » Fri Jul 02, 2010 11:37 pm

Fleff,

Whatever line pressure you have is fine. For me that's about 120 psi. I can assure you that you will not hurt the engine, since the oil that is going back into the accessory case is filtered oil. Try it. If you don't think it's a good idea, then how you do the next one is up to you. An awl is what I use. You can use a phillips head screwdriver also. All you're trying to do is make a hole large enough so that a blow gun will be able to direct it's air into the filter can. I use a tip that has a rubber end on it so that it seals right up to the canister.

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Postby Jim Worley » Sun Jul 04, 2010 5:12 am

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Postby Zach Grant L1011jock » Sun Jul 04, 2010 3:58 pm

"Keep it above 5 feet and don't do nuthin dumb!"
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Turbo Comanche oil change

Postby Tony Scarpelli » Tue Aug 10, 2010 5:58 am

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Re: oil change etc.

Postby mdelaware » Thu Jan 06, 2011 9:26 pm

I do this on my 260B
I have a clean way that I came up with to capture the oil from the oil filter. I bought a plastic transmission oil filter funnel at a local automotive store sliced it length wise to look similar to a narrow shovel slide it under the oil filter attached a hose to the end of spout with hose clamp. now Just put the hose in a 5 gal paint bucket loosen the oil filter and let it drain. I dont get a drop on the engine no clean :D up works for me.
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Re: oil change etc.

Postby 9089P » Thu Jan 06, 2011 9:39 pm

Hi Mark,

We have a 260B as well, how long is the filler from end to end and in what direction do you orient it? We use the 48111 filter if that makes a difference.

Thanks, Don
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